I could write a whole book on this. I worked in a packing and slaughter house back in Fort Wayne, Indiana when I was 21. It was a great learning experience; however, I’m quite sure I made the correct choice to return to the kitchen.

We buy different cuts of meat from different ranchers including Creekstone and Niman. There are big differences in how the cattle are raised, fed and bred, which translate into big differences in flavor and texture. These cattle are void of unwanted antibiotics and growth hormones. Both of these ranches “house grade” their beef, which means it is not USDA graded. Buying this beef involves a certain level of trust. That, however, does not mean that we do not inspect the primal cuts for marbling of fat. A good steak, whether it be from the loin or rib section, should have visible thin striations of white fat running throughout the muscle. The color of the muscle should be bright red when exposed to air. Good beef is firm to the touch and not soft.

If you are not going to cook or roast your steaks the day you buy them, remove them from the paper or plastic and wrap them in a clean towel before putting them into the fridge. This will allow the meat to breath, and it will keep better and longer.

Pork

There is a lot more to pork than being “the other white meat.” Just like beef, it’s all about the breed, feed and arranged living conditions. Most pork in the U.S. is industrially raised in somewhat horrific conditions and fed a diet that promotes fast growth. We get our pigs from either Niman or Devils Gulch Ranch (DGR) where they are raised in a more natural setting that is also more environmentally-friendly. They also taste better. We buy whole hogs from DGR and use every part but the squeal.

Lamb

We don’t serve much in the restaurant except for the winter months when braised lamb shanks are featured on the menu. Though, we will, on occasion, buy whole lambs from DGR.

In general, apply the same rules of buying lamb as you do beef and pork – know where it comes from and how it was raised.

Salt

Use Kosher or Sea salt

Pepper

Grind it to order

Spices

Good for about a year before they lose intensity. Dry toast spices in a sauté pan to intensify their flavor

Oil

Use good extra virgin olive oil for finishing dishes. High heat destroys the fruitiness that you paid for. You can sauté with grape seed oil, peanut oil, canola oil or less expensive olive oil. Keep your oil out of sunlight in a cool spot or refrigerate. Its shelf life is no more than a year.

We pour 100 % California Mission olive oil with our bread service. The flavor changes throughout the year. When it is first bottled in January it has a grassy nose and peppery finish. As the months pass it mellows a bit and takes on more of a nut like flavor. We also use a variety of organic Tuscan EVOO for finishing our grilled meats and pastas.

Vinegars

will keep for a long time. Different vinegars work with some foods better than others so keep a variety on hand. Balsamic vinegar sold in the U.S. is generally a rip-off and is produced in an industrial fashion.

Flour

goes rancid after a year. You can prolong its life by keeping in the fridge, but you then have to deal with condensation as it come to room temperature. Flour is the cheapest thing in the pantry, so it’s better to keep it fresh. I also keep Semolina on hand for my homemade fresh pasta recipe.\

Tomatoes

Many chefs praise San Marzano tomatoes imported from Italy. In the restaurant, we use Alta Cucina tomatoes that are grown and packed in Modesto. At home, I keep some boutique tomato sauces on hand. If you’re so inclined, growing your own tomatoes is even better.

Capers

In brine, capers will keep in the fridge for a long time. They can add a another layer of flavor to pastas, salads and sauces for meat and fish

Olives

are a matter of personal preference. I use both brined and salt cured. Brined olives like Kalamatas will keep longer in the fridge. Giant, green Castelvetrano make great table olives. If you have a source for raw olives, it is fairly easy to cure your own. More on that to come in December.

The simple approach to buying good produce is to try before you buy. This involves sampling anything that you have might have a doubt about. Buy produce in the peak of its season. It will taste better and it’s cheaper. We will discuss the “carbon footprint” later…

September-ish favorites

Heirloom Tomatoes

Heirlooms have been in the restaurant for about a month now and are still in their prime. Buy them when they are slightly firm to the squeeze. Do not refrigerate but use within a few days. Sliced Heirlooms are best eaten raw with a little salt, pepper and olive oil. Add fresh mozzarella and fresh basil to make a “Caprese” salad.

Melons

There are many varieties of melons to choose from, all with outstanding flavor. The safe bet with melons is to “try before you buy.” You can refrigerate them but be sure to serve melons at a cool temperature. A little salt and lime will bring out the sweetness.

Figs

Choose fresh figs that are firm (not hard) to the squeeze. Black Mission figs should be dark skinned without green shoulders. Green Adriatic figs are green on the outside and bright pink on the inside. Figs are very versatile and can be used in both sweet and savory dishes. They can be eaten raw, baked, roasted, broiled, grilled and poached. They go very well with cheese, especially Goat and Gorgonzola.

Shelling beans

Fresh cranberry, butter, cannellini and garbanzo beans all have a soft and creamy texture and wonderful nutty flavor. These can be shelled a day or two ahead of time and will keep for a couple of days in the fridge after they are cooked. We like to serve them with different types of meat, poultry and fish in various broths.

Peppers

There are many interesting peppers available in produce markets right now. In the restaurant, we use a variety of mild Italian frying peppers with great flavor. These peppers are about 3-4 inches long and around 1 inch wide towards the stem. They are very mild and can be pickled, grilled or quickly sautéed whole in a little olive oil and salt. These are great with sliced salumi, olives or on sandwiches, pizza or Bruschetta.

Sweet corn

The long awaited Brentwood corn is now available to us in the Bay Area. I was also recently able to enjoy some of the best Midwestern sweet corn purchased from a farmer’s stand alongside the road. I always inspect corn by pulling back the husk about halfway. The kernels should be plump and bright. Cut a few of the kernels off and taste them if you’re unsure. Corn on the cob can be grilled in the husk or shucked and boiled for a couple of minutes – there is no reason to overcook it. Often, we take the corn of the cob and sauté it with some peppers and zucchini for a side dish. If you are not going to cook the corn immediately, store it in the fridge, keeping the husk on.

Peaches, Nectarines, Plums and Pluots

Stone fruits can be a total crap shoot. The try before you buy rule definitely applies here as these fruits can look and feel great but once cut into can be dry, mealy and sour. The shelf life on these fruits when stored at room temp is fairly short, at which point they bruise very easily. When transporting these from the market to your kitchen keep, it’s best to keep them in a cardboard tray so they don’t develop these bruises. We often serve stone fruits with sliced prosciutto as an antipasti, but, needless to say, there are thousands of dessert applications. One of my favorite ways to serve peaches as dessert is to cut them in half and grill them with a little Amaretto and honey and serve with vanilla ice cream

Summer Squash

There are many different varieties of zucchini in the market right now, and we use them all. I like the outside part of the zucchini best and serve it raw, thinly sliced and tossed with a little lemon, olive, salt and pepper. Zucchini also works very well on the grill, brushed with a little olive oil. Grilling only takes about 30 seconds on each side over a hot fire. When pulling zucchini off the grill, don’t pile slices on top of one another, as it will trap the heat and continue to cook, leaving you with mush.

Eggplant

Susan Spicer, the Chef/Owner of Bayona in New Orleans, once said to her cooks, “undercooked eggplant has no redeeming qualities.” There are several varieties on the market right now including White, Globe, Japanese, Rosa Bianca and the pink and white striped Listada de Gandia. Keep your eggplants in the fridge until ready to use. We typically slice, marinate and grill our eggplant or dice and sauté it for Caponata.

We believe in and support sustainable fishing practices

Rule # 2

Scrutinize the fish you buy with extreme prejudice

Rule # 3

Cook seafood the day you buy it

Halibut

Alaskan Halibut is one of my favorite fish to eat, and it sells like crazy. When buying it, you should smell it from about an inch away. If it smells like the ocean – good! If it smells “fishy,” then skip it. Most people at home will buy filleted fish.

Tuna

Sea Bass

Day Boat Scallops

Gulf Shrimp

Squid

Oysters

Crab

Clams/Mussels